Thursday, February 24, 2011

A Recent Roadtrip 05/05/2006

A Recent Roadtrip
Denver to Madison, April 20-21, 2006

I recently took a trip from Denver to Madison with a crazy older woman, two backpacking drifters, a gigantic 11-year-old golden retriever, and one smaller service dog for the lady.

Through a wily chain of events, I had been somewhat stranded in Colorado for roughly a month's time. I traveled to Boulder with a friend from Wisconsin, who had planned to stay a week for spring break. Once in town, I ran into an acquaintance that happened to be traveling to Chicago a week after the Wisconsin lad. He agreed to drop me in Madison in route to Chicago, if that were my fancy. As two weeks is always better than one, I agreed to accompany the fine sir.

Well... a day shy of two weeks, and Mr. Chicago crashed his car and had to cancel the trip. In an ironic chain of events, my friend from Wisconsin also totaled his car on the way back the week before! Indeed, he needed to get towed into Creston, Iowa, and barrowed his little brother's 1978 hearse to get back to Madison. Perhaps Father Fate had twisted my arm into not going back as scheduled.

As my traveling mate was a mammoth 11-year-old, tumor-ridden, beast of a dog, it would be a dilemma to get back to Madison car-less. It seems Greyhound isn't too keen on that bread of rider. Thus, my efforts turned to internet ride-shares, and I was able to find a ride going to Madison, but not for a whole month. It turned out to be a really swell month, so that wasn't a real big deal...

The driver going to Madison was one of the most eccentric characters I've encountered. Margaret was in her early 50s, and on a huge mess of anti-anxiety medications-- Ritalin and the whole works. We had several lengthy conversations before the trip, which were more exhaustive accounts of her recent ugly divorce than anything to do with traveling. Accompanying her was a small service dog, (services for which I was never quite aware, but apparently dealing with the woman's frequent anxiety attacks). Also here for the ride were Heidi, the most claustrophobic transient I've ever met, and her partner Fish, a long beard with dreadlocks.

This was to be an interesting trip. It took us well over an hour to leave Denver. Margaret made two unnecessary stops, and then drove back to her house fearing she left the door open. Once on the road, she talked a mile a minute, whizzing wildly out of town at speeds approaching 95. I was sitting in the middle of the back seat. Huge old dog to my left, claustrophobic Heidi to my right. A few times each hour, Heidi would ask me to move over three more inches, but it was simply beyond all realms of reasonable science.

Somewhere in rural Nebraska, we stopped at a truck stop to look at the map. Margaret ordered a pot of coffee and large chocolate malt (she ate nothing but chocolate malts the entire trip). The couple ordered breaded cauliflower, and I a standard eggs and toast breakfast. The three of us spent over an hour watching Margaret rant and fidget over the best possible route. She had picked up numerous hotel broshures, and had Fish go through them to find the best possible rate. "Make sure it has a hot-tub and sauna!" Margret keep bellowing to the stoic hippie. Heidi and I sat and smiled at the whole affair. The diner was almost completely empty, and the wait staff merely stood behind the counter and stared, trying to anticipate every parched throat or craving for strawberry jam.

It was determined that we would stop at a nice Comfort Inn in Omaha. Neither Heidi, Fish, nor myself could remember staying anywhere fancier. Margaret agreed to pay for the room, in exchange for us paying most of the gas, and hemmed and hawed her way to some sort of amazing deal at the front desk. Fish had done well in his efforts, and the poolroom was completely equipped with "authentic tropical setting."

The four of us all promptly got into our various bathing gear to head down to the pool. Heidi had some sort of hand-made Socrates-style gown. Margaret worn an outfit dizzyingly too revealing for her age and girth. Fish said that he always wore swim trunks as underwear, and simply took off his pants. The closest thing I had were a pair of cut-off suit pants, but that seemed to be sufficient. It made me proud to be part of that well-traveled, eccentric four-some. I wondered if those Nebraskans had ever seen such a rag-tag posse lounging in their hot tub...

Shortly after our arrival, three security guards approached us, and demanded to see Margaret. She was planning on letting her service dog stay in the room for the night, and believed that it was her right under Federal law to do so. The security disagreed. Within a few minutes Margaret and the officers took a wild shouting match out of the pool area and into some undisclosed location. Meanwhile, Heidi had somehow wandered off, and the lights were turning off all around the pool area as a sign of closing. It was now just me and Fish alone in the hot tub.

We calmly talked about the Great Salt Lake, and how much we both enjoyed natural springs. I mentioned that my peculiar father was planning a trip to Northwest Arkansas, where an obscure prophecy denotes the location of the "Ark of the Covenant." Somehow we began discussing working on the fishing boats in Alaska, something we'd both casually thought about. The room was still and silent. The cool blue pool glistened over faint artificially lighting.

Fish was my favorite traveling mate. A cool, collected character with a strong sense of self-irony. He had the look and demeaner of a man anywhere between 25 and 60. As we left the pool, it soon occurred to me that we were somehow cut from the same cloth, bizarre and misshapened as it were. Fish took in his exterior world as an infant, curiously inspecting every new surrounding with whimsy. We nonchalantly roamed the hotel hallways in bathing suits; somewhat familiar with the vague direction we were going, yet not particularly caring for the outcome. With each turn of the corner, Fish would pause and gaze at the intricacies of the carpeting, the grain on a doorway, the way in which conditioned air flowed from one floor to another. We had an extended conversation about the design style of this hotel's particular maintnance man.

Margaret soon burst into the hallway sobbing. It was nearly an hour after we'd seen her, and she was being escorted to her room by a security officer. The dog was now in the car, but she vowed to never return and to contact the hotel corporate offices with her disgust. We still stayed the night. Back inside the room, we found Heidi and began to unwind. All of us wanted a little nip to drink, so Fish and I went out to the hotel bar to bring back some brews. (Heidi had no identification, and Margaret was in no condition to go out.)

The hotel bar was shocking by all respects. More popular than popular culture itself. It seems as though young Nebraskans take in their idea of slick MTV culture, and hyper-realize it like the Japanese are said to. The MC was beat red and bellowed, "Only 45 minutes left to hook up!" and "Gurls, show us yer titties!" Was this really happening? It was packed and rowdy on a Thursday night. One look up at the crowd, and 20 looks of anticipated Nebraskan intercourse stared back. It seems that we'd found Omaha's "lets get drunk and make whoopee" bar. The only white-hairs came from a misplaced elderly couple that apparently found a coupon for brandy in their hotel room. Fish and I stood somewhat perplexed looking over the seen. He asked if I, as a self-proclaimed filmmaker, looked at my external world in terms of filmic potential. I remarked that I certainly did, especially in such a situation.

So, we rounded up the brews, and left after the situation was sufficiently analyzed. We all got a little buzzed and soon dropped like chopped timber to sleep. Well, all but Margaret. She was still talking when I conked out, and God knows if she ever entered the Freudian trance.

We had a large buffet breakfast in the hotel lobby the next day. Fish had his own large bronze spoon that he used to eat all meals. Margaret asked if it ever went off in metal detectors, and he said that his forearm was a bigger problem. Then, to the background drown of Ab-Rider infomercials, he explained one of the most colorfully detailed stories I've heard in a long time.

"Back in mid-June of 2000 it happened," he said, chomping down masses of eggs with each pause. "I was riding the train through New Mexico and was just a few miles outside Flagstaff. There was a military base on the other side of the tracks, and I didn't want them to see me... A road was on the other side, so I didn't want to jump there either... The thing is, I'd gotten really sick the night before. There's so many roaches in the Southwest, that time of year-- big as rodents almost." He paused to stare at the Ab-Rider and chew. "So I got this chocolate cake and put it over on the other end of the rail car, so I could sleep... but I took a big hunk of it, too."

"Was it good?" I asked.

"Oh, yeah, it was ok. Kind of dry, maybe..." He stared off in recollection. "Then later that night I got really paranoid, and needed to get off. It'd happened before. I knew I needed to stop moving and just heave it out... There's a special way of jumping off trains, this friend of mine, Anne. You remember her, Heidi?" She nodded. "Anne lost both of her feet riding trains. Another friend lost a leg once... Once you do it a few times, your ok, but at first... There was this young teenage kid that rode with a buddy of mine --there's lots of young kids on the trains-- the kid jumped off too soon and got caught under..."

He paused a moment. A middle-aged, corporately gay couple was eating breakfast with grizzled Nebraskan parents across the room.

"The thing is, I've never been to Flagstaff, and always wanted to go. The train wasn't going to stop there... I could have just gotten off at the next stop... It was a hundred miles, but that's not too bad when you're on the road... And the day before I was jumping off this bridge with friends, these big risk-takers. I didn't think I could do it, into the river, but it seems easy once you just jump. I'd never done anything like that before. I thought that if I just jumped..."

Margaret suddenly asked him to pause while she scurried off for coffee. In the distance, an elderly woman was explaining a misplaced call to 911 some years back. "And when they called back, I said I was just trying to call my sister!" All the nearby old women howled with wheezing laughter.

"I hear it's mostly really old guys and youngsters on the rails," I questioningly mentioned to Fish. "Like those 40 year old guys that look 70."

Fish agreed with a mild grin, knowing fully that he himself could pass as a similar character. Margaret returned, "So what'd you do?" she beaconed.

"...well they say you should only jump at about bicycle speed. That's what they told me. But I was still kind of sick, and had my confidence all built up from jumping the bridge. I thought it'd be fine if I just got into the air... And just before that I was trying to stop the train with my mind."

"Where you on some kind of junk?" Margaret jumped in.

"Oh, no. Nothing like that. I just thought that if really focused it would stop." A smile broke over my face, as I knew exactly the feeling.

"So when it didn't stop... I got all panicky, and thought it was now or never. I'd miss my chance. So I threw out my pack, and watched it hit, imagining how I'd jump it. And then I put my right hand out and just leap... It seemed like I was in the air for a long time, and then everything stopped. I might have blacked out... everything was real hazy. When I got up, my arm was all shaped like a "Z," and I knew it was something bad... I guess there was blood all over my face, but I didn't really notice... There was this guy that broke his leg jumping once, and they didn't find him for about two days..."

"How long where you there?" I asked.

"Oh, well it was right by this road, on the edge of town. I walked back to get my pack and then made it to the road to hitch to the hospital... It was probably just the first or second one that picked me up. I'd been reading this book about bird prophesies just before that, and saw an owl staring at me just before it happened..."

"Remember when that owl chased after me through the woods?" asked Heidi.

Fish gravely nodded. "It can mean a lot of things..."

They were starting to close down the dining hall, and it was time to leave. We walked and watered the dogs, and I took the wheel towards Madison. Fish and Heidi requested to be dropped off at an intersection near Albert Lee, so that they could hitch-hick to Minneapolis. We listened to bad country music on the radio, and had a long, draw-out farewell on the side of a country road exit. We all hugged and said our good-byes. I could tell it was hardest for Margaret. Heidi was clearly amused at how motherly she was towards them.

It would be about 4 more hours to Madison. We stopped along the way for chocolate milkshakes, and Margaret lovingly told me about her 14-year-old daughter waiting in Madison. "Its hard, trying to shape my girl in just a few days... Hormones, school, growing up. I just wish I could do more, but I do everything I can." Margaret had been deemed incompetent to care for her daughter, and was going to Madison to settle a bitter and lengthy court battle.

"Come to my daughter's dance recital in two weeks. It would really make me happy to see you there."


A Recent Roadtrip
Daniel James 2006

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

One Day in Roanoke

-- The following is an account of a 24-hour period of a three-month Bearded Child Film Festival tour in the Fall of 2005. A rough tour diary is still archived at myspace.com/beardedchildfilmfest. Hopefully one day I’ll go back and edit the whole trip!


One Day in Roanoke (2005)

The sun was setting low in the pre-night sky as I found myself roaring through the back-roads of Virginia in a beat-up 1978 Chevy van, taking in my first few breaths of the Real South

For a life-long Northerner by trade, ramshackled ma & pa service stations, rusted-out Model T’s corroding under bridges, and vast mystical swamplands were a real wonder to my eyes. I almost always took the back-roads, and this night was no exception. I slipped into Roanoke at “magic hour”: the brief moment of stopped time when everything mundane turns fantastic, as the skies cum over themselves with ecstatic glory.

It was mid-November, and I had been on the road since August; crisscrossing the country with a bundle of experimental films, a movie projector, and a few hundred pounds of wild rice. This was my attempt to put-off the inevitable force of the Modern World; to leave my application for Home Depot on the back-burner; to live on my wits and grits on the open road.

By most “practical” standards, this may have been the lowest point of my life. I had a string of bad-luck shows, and needed to be in Durham in three days, without physically having enough money to get there. A bit of a predicament, it would seem. 

Luckily, I had a back-up plan for such a situation: boxes and boxes of the finest Canadian wild rice you’ve ever seen. My pop owned a small wild rice company at the time, and I was driving around his second work van, packed with not only films, but also wild rice to hawk on the road

Surprisingly, the rice sold pretty well at film showings, and had been a savior of sorts. Roadside selling had been far less profitable, and now a farmers’ market or trade show was my only real option to make enough money for the next town.

After researching the State of Virginia’s Agricultural Department at the public library, I’d discovered the upcoming market in Roanoke. I called the market manager from a pay phone, and  explained my situation. She said it might be ok, in an “I guess it couldn’t hurt…” tone of voice. “But you’ll have to show up at 5am, we’re booked pretty tight on Saturdays.”

Thankfully the ride to Roanoke was mostly down-hill, and I had just enough gas to roll into town on fumes. It was the night before the market, and I planned on finding the market spot and parking the van somewhere nearby to sleep for the night. I didn’t have any type of an alarm clock, but have a pretty reliable internal clock for such a situation.

The streets were empty, and the calm beauty of the town came over me like a Midnight tide. 

There is a reason you’ve likely never heard of Roanoke, or thought of it with much seriousness: If you had, its charm would be forever spoiled. I found the lovely 100-year-old market square, and began circling downtown for a spot to bed down for the evening. Amongst the serenity, I noticed a small 24-hour, whole-in-the wall diner that looked to be everything I’d ever dreamed of and more. Americana is very dear to me, and the warm glow of the single-staffed, dozen-seated greasy spoon sent a rippling tear down my spine. 


Oh! If I could only afford a plate of eggs..

Number one in the “Hobo Handbook of Life” states that it is very risky etiquette to park your van in a wide-open downtown district. Generally speaking, shopping centers, rest areas, or hidden residential areas are the way to go. But, I needed be up at 5am, and conceded to park in what appeared to be an attendant-free, all-night parking garage. This was a little boisterous on my part, but I was tired, and willing to roll the dice. Just as I finished buttoning up the last curtain, I felt the light of a flashlight burning at my retinas. Shit! Once the curtains are down, and you’re out of sight, you’re Scott-free. The pigs can’t hassle what they don’t see! But the officer was on bike, and apparently glid in without my notice. He beckoned me to get out of the vehicle, and I obeyed. 

“What a strange turn my life has taken,” I thought. Penniless and living in a van in Roanoke, Virginia! What would my 12-year-old Youth think of this? Would this be an exhilarating or sobering experience if placed in an “It’s a Wonderful Life” context? I knew the answer right off, and almost shouted, “Fuck yeah!” in the poor man’s face. 

Thank the good graces I was born tranquil.

At first the officer was very gruff and serious with me. He called my number into the station, and soon sternly asked, “Have you been to Ohio recently?” My heart stopped. “Oh… Ohio? Ummm… n.. no, no not re.. recently.” My mind went wild. Had I ever been to Ohio? What vile acts could I have committed there?! 

“Yes, he’s been to Ohio,” the officer relayed to headquarters. 

I’d been traveling crazy, it was all a blur to me now. After the policeman confirmed a few more details on the other end, he told me, “Your van was cited for suspicion in Conneaut, Ohio, eight days ago… what the hell are you doing in Virginia?” 

It finally hit. Conneaut! Why, that seemed like eight months ago; eight years would even seem more reasonable. I explained to him that I was a traveling filmmaker, and would be selling wild rice at the “Historic Roanoke Farmers’ Market” in the morning in order to pay for gas. 

Surprisingly, this all seemed perfectly reasonable and logical to him. I showed him some of my rice, and he remarked that it looked to be a very fine product. He also complimented me on my living arrangement, and asked if I had some kind of heater in the van. “No, but I’ve plenty of comfy blankets,” I remarked. He gave a near smile, and a somewhat fatherly shake of the head. 

“Well… I don’t have any problems with you sleeping here, to tell the truth. I’d hate to scare you off if you’re selling at the market tomorrow; this is probably as safe a spot as any.” 

I nodded, trying to look intently interested and aware. 

“It’s usually pretty quiet up here this time ‘a night, but keep your doors locked... you got a cell phone?”  I shook my head no.

He rubbed his chin in concerned disgust. “Well… I’m patrolling this ramp all night, and we’ll keep an eye out for ya.” I thanked the man, and watched him struggle to ride his bike up to the next level. “Hummm… maybe those pigs aren’t as Hitler-esque as it seems,” I thought with a smile, and proceeded to hunker down for a pleasant night ’o snoozin’.

I set my brain-clock to 4:50am, and promptly woke up at 4:45am. Silly brain! Always trying to one-up the consciousness. I hustled straight down to the market, but it was bare as a bucket of air. So I went back to the van, rustled up some seat-cushion change, and moseyed on over to the diner. 

There were four haggled-looking men scattered throughout the diner, and it was obvious they’d all been there for quite some time. It reminded me of a cross between Back to the Future and Night of the Living Dead. I presumed that at least two of them spent the night staring into coffee rather than enduring another night in the gutter. 

One of the men ushered the attendant over to order some eggs and toast. “Hash browns?” asked the attendant. “Nah, I ain’t got no use for them luxury items! Ha haw!” He bellowed, before falling into a phlegmy hacking fit. 

Ah, now that’s my kind of place! I, too, was in no state for luxury, and ordered coffee, eggs, and toast. I wanted to stay awhile, but quickly wolfed down the eats, anxious to get back to the market. I left a dollar’s worth of nickels and dimes as tip, and the man behind the counter gave me a tip of his cap.

The market manager was a wiry, New Age type of gal; bombarding me with more pleasantries than I was ready to handle at such an hour. The market fee would be a reasonable $10, but I’d need to wait around for all the regulars to get there before she could grant me an official spot. 

“Come with me, there’s some people I want you to meet!” she chirped. I was then introduced to a couple of young, fairly attractive hippie types selling pottery. “These are the fun girls! Of course, everyone here’s fun, but ya know!” I did my best to zombie out some sort of mild small talk, looking like I’d just rolled out of an unmarked drifter’s grave. The morning fatigue had hit, and I could have easily collapsed backwards onto the concrete to shut down for a couple hours. 

Luckily, the market manager and the Fun Posse jumped into immediate “inside” talk amongst themselves, and I was able to glide away without a trace, after only a few moments of misplaced staring at hands, aloof distracted nods, and downward smiles.

Time continued, as per usual. The “regulars” arrived quite late, and I didn’t set-up until around 9:30. In the mean time, I changed clothes and washed myself up in the public bathroom of a Southern yuppie-style shopping mall, which basically consisted of one giant, sprawling ice-cream parlor and some video games. 

Then I stood around and watched the situation like one would a TCM classic. People are so wound up in their busy-body, manual tasks turned automatic; it you simply cease for a moment, the whimsy is near spectacular. Time stops and you become a ghostly voyeur. If you can see them, really see them, in all their wound-up homely angst, you can always go undetected.  “Humanity in the Snow Globe.”

Sucked back into the Globe, it was now time to sell myself some wild rice. I was in the far end corner next to a bland, middle-aged, portly woman selling hand soap.  My set-up was very basic and extremely hobo-eske: Ratty-looking, tapped-up boxes stacked on a table and filled with rice labeled “The Rocky Mountain Rice Company.” 

What a strange product to be selling in central Virginia, especially considering the absurd impossibility of wild rice growing in the Rocky Mountains, or the entire state of Colorado for that matter. And so I began to sell, amongst the usual taunts of  How wild is it?! Got any tame rice?! Better put a leash and them virmons!” etc etc

One of my most entertaining interactions came from a thin, well-dressed, 70-something that would come darting by me smoking a cigarette about once an hour. Black tie, slick hair, class as it’s ever seen. He always had some kind of crazy one-liner for me, like I was an old poker buddy.

I love the elderly; could stare at them for hours. Generally, I couldn’t quite make out his jokes, but would laugh with the belly each time because his presentation was so spot-key. At one point he jibbed, “Well, my last’s name’s Wild… but I ain’t wild!” I roared with glee, and spit out, “Looks like ya got a new nickname: Wild Rice!” He seemed not to understand, and zipped away before I even caught my wind.

Sales were great, although it was said that a big Virginia Tech game was going on at the same time, so the crowd was way down from usual. The portly soap lady mostly whined about wanting to go home and eat. 

Next to her was a crazy old coot named Johnny, selling various garden vegetables. He talked about first riding to the markets on a horse-pulled wagon in the ‘30s, and had been selling at the market every year since, sans four years in the military. Besides talking, he loved nothing more than listening to talk, and could somehow relate any thought or experience to one of his own. 

Johnny wore filthy overalls, and a white-turned-mother-of-pearl undershirt. It was a true delight to be approached by him, as I anticipated my youth and apparent oddness might scare him away: Success! Once accepted by a market regular, you are truly among the The Heartlanders, those that live and breath America.

After a few hours of hawking my edible wares, crowds began to dwindle, and I had the soap lady look over my stand while I hit up the yuppie-center restroom. Right across the street, between me and bladder release, an anti-war demonstration had suddenly formed. Various television stations had congregated to document the event, which had a decent crowd of 80-100. I strolled across the street and gave a fey smile, as the live broadcast most certainly captured my mug.

The day moved on and the characters of Roanoke began to settle and become more apparent. Lone-wolf transient wanderers glided by, and even a young Drew Barrymore lookalike.

She paused, crunching into a fresh green apple and leaning up against my stand. “I’ve never met a traveling rice salesman before,” she spoke, gazing through my flustered mind. “Well, huh huh, now you have..” 

After a successful day, I turned in nearly $200 and was feeling fine. I lingered around the local coffee shop, and headed back to the van around early evening. It was nice to feel a bit over the poverty line for a change! 

Then the BummerTrain rolled into town, and my headlights mysteriously wouldn't turn on. I knew it probably wasn't the bulbs, but had some time on my hands, and thought it'd be no big deal to head over to the nearest Wal-Mart for replacements.

It was a ten-minute drive from town, but all I had for transport was a children’s razor shooter. It took me about an hour of puttering along the shoulder of the highway, to the tone of numerous shouts and hillbilly tauntings from passers-by. 

Afterwords, I was far too exhausted to scooter any longer, and attempted to hitch back to town. A rather round gentleman who reeked of bacon picked me up. His Southern accent was too harsh for me to understand, and my Minnesotan accent was a bit much for him. However, once we got downtown, I picked up that a couple of his "eateries" were in the neighborhood. He then bid me farewell by bellowing "see ya at church!" 

I began working on the van, conveniently parked right in front of a discotheque. Glitter-glad youths gathered around as I fumbled with the wiring. The new headlights made no difference, so I put a battery-power lamp on my dash, turned on my hazard lights, and drove creeping down the highway a couple miles until I hit a Piggly Wiggly to stop and park for the night. 

Oddly enough, my lights worked the next morning, and haven't given me trouble since... I was then off to visit my uncle in Sparta, North Carolina, and then off to the next string of shows in Asheville, Georgia and Florida..

TO BE CONTINUED...

One Day in Roanoke
Daniel James 2005/12